We find that wet cleaning yields the best results with Southwest textiles. It is not a complicated process, but it requires experience and close attention to detail.

Textiles are carefully examined prior to treatment; fragile or damaged areas may be sewn to protect them during cleaning. Dry soil is removed by vacuum or compressed air, stains are pretreated or removed. Textiles are cleaned one at a time on a flat surface, using synthetic detergents and other agents. The migration of unstable dye is controlled by careful washing practice. Existing color run, or color run incurred in cleaning, can be removed during the cleaning process. After thorough rinsing textiles are dried flat and can be blocked to rectify shape and improve surface texture.

In the late 1800s weavers in the South West began using synthetically dyed yarns. At first, synthetically dyed yarns were received in trade; a short time later the use of synthetic dyes on native hand-spun yarns became common. By the late 1890s most dyed yarns in Southwestern weaving were synthetically dyed. The dyes used were generally union dyes, having a low light and wash fastness. It is likely the dyes were often poorly applied and inadequately rinsed; as a result, color run, or ‘dye bleed’, is common in Southwestern textiles.

Color run can be removed or lessened. The standard industry process is called ‘stripping’ or ‘de-bleeding’ and typically employs a reducing agent, sodium hydrosulphite. We remove color run using a number of different chemicals and processes, often in varying combinations. The process is not usually harmful to fiber, but can alter color irreversibly and is not without risk.

We offer color run removal as a service and have been doing this work on a daily basis for more than twenty years. It is not an exact science, but we bring a lot of experience to the work. Each job is carefully assessed and can be discussed in advance to provide the best understanding of the possible outcome.

The weavings of the Navajo, Pueblo, and Hispanic peoples of the American Southwest share similar structures and materials. Primarily weft faced flat weaves, they appear simple structures to repair. Consistently good results require skill and experience; it is more complicated than it seems.

While good technique and manual skills are fundamental, it is often the preparation of materials that determines success. Fiber characteristics, spin, and color must be matched as closely as possible. We spin our yarns from fleece or roving and re-spin from commercial yarns. The majority of our materials are dyed in-house using synthetic and natural dyes. We have developed an extensive inventory of materials acquired from a wide range of sources over the twenty five years we have worked with these textiles.

We are fortunate to have good teachers. Among our clients are some of the most experienced curators, dealers, and collectors in the field. The great variety of textiles they have brought us, and our work on weavings from many of the major museum collections, have provided a unique opportunity to study the best material with the most knowledgeable people. We learn every day.